P.s. Apologising for the slight delay as I had some minor technical difficulties which caused the delay of this blog. Nonetheless, I hope you enjoyed talking a walk through Little India with me!
It’s Deepavali (or Diwali) and in a unique district in the south-central part of Singapore, Little India is extra lit!
Deepavali is the Hindu New Year and is known as the festival of lights. The bright lights and lamps lit during the festival signify the triumph of good (light) over evil (darkness)1.
Being in Singapore, cultural diversity and the vibrancy that goes with it is an important fabric of the Singaporean identity. I am super excited to bring you on a walking tour of Singapore’s Little India. During the weeks leading up to Deepavali, the streets of Little India get decked in colourful, bright lights. Pandemic or not, stalls and boutiques are brimming with sarees and suits, flowers, intricate gold jewellery, incense and traditional Deepavali snacks – with an excitable crowd, especially come the cooler evening time, reciprocating their demand.
Although Deepavali is a public holiday, many Hindu-owned businesses prefer to remain open for business to usher in Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth. So Little India on Deepavali day would be nothing short of bustling! Let’s go!
New Madras Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant
I walked from All Things Delicious at Arab Street up to Little India and it took me about 15 minutes in a leisurely pace, to reach Jalan Besar MRT station. After walking along the relatively quiet section of Little India, I eventually reached the very busy Dickson Road. No, it wasn’t on a whim or anything like that. This was planned to coincide with that time of the day. It was about 3 in the afternoon, which means it’s coffee o’clock! Thoughts of a steaming, hot cup of South-Indian style filter coffee, served the traditional way and some warm snacks did not stop me from joining the queue outside this vegetarian institution.
Established in 1983, New Madras Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant is a household name and I’ve been going there with my family forever! I love fermented rice and I love dal (lentils), so thosai (or dosa) with its accompanying chutneys and sambar are definitely comfort food for me. And in the afternoons, this place is where you can get the perfect vadai, a savoury, deep-fried donut made of dal and fresh herbs. Slightly crispy and golden brown on the outside, fluffy and fragrant on the inside. You‘ll come across some whole peppercorns as you work your way through this donut, giving a spicy kick with every bite! Don’t forget to dip the vadai into the chutneys provided! All this served on a banana-leaf lined stainless steel plate – I simply love it!
If you are lucky, and that is a big IF, you may be able to get a plate of appam. Appam is a south-indian style pancake made of fermented rice and coconut cream. They get cooked in a small but deep wok, giving it a UFO-like appearance when they land on your table. The fermentation gives the batter a beautiful tang that I simply couldn’t get enough of. The style here include drizzling the appam batter with some fresh coconut cream while it cooks–I’ve personally never seen this done elsewhere. I mean this right here, is what makes this place special and why I’ve included the big, fat IF at the beginning of this paragraph. Get here early.
The divas working here had forgotten about my coffee, but I forgive them EVERYTIME. I love them. I love how they hardly speak anything back to you but they UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING. The force between customer and server is doubtlessly strong on this one. They know that we will be back, I will be back and everyone else will be back here. Good food, great value, beautiful coffee, super ambiance, crazy consistent, diva-esque service staff – I give them 5/5 stars each time, every time.
Murals in Little India
For a small district, there is certainly no shortage of colourful street art in Little India. The best way to discover Little India is on foot and you’ll be rewarded with so many colourful and beautifully drawn murals and artworks all over the district from its alleys and back lanes, to the main streets.
Here are some of my favourites:
- Madan Mogra, Jasmine of the City by Nadiah Alsagoff off Chander Road (it’s on the alley)
- Alive @ CLIVE by Traseone on Dunlop Street
- Working Class Hero by Zero on Hindoo Road
- A Ride through Race Course Road by Jaxton Su JingXiang off Race Course Road (it’s on the alley)
Tekka Centre
This is the OG of a shopping complex! Back in the day, this area along the Rochor Canal was dotted with bamboo trees. The Hokkiens, a segment of the local Chinese community in Singapore, used to call this place tek kia kha, or tek kah for short2 – meaning the “foot of the small bamboo”. Originally built in 1915, Tekka moved to its current location in the early 1980s.
Tekka is one of my go-to markets in Singapore! Not only can you find fresh meats (the chickens used to be slaughtered and plucked on the spot), you’ll find a mind-boggling variety of seasonal fruits and vegetables as well as freshly ground spices. When you’re buying some, tell the spice-wallah what you’re making and she’ll deftly mix and grind the spices in the secret formulation right before your eyes!
Tekka also has a legendary food market contained within its slightly sticky walls. There’s a Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated briyani stall, a stall serving Sri Lankan delights, Chinese-style vegetarian pratas with curry, Indian-style pratas with curry, South Indian style street food and snacks, Chinese noodles and roast meats, Malay mixed rice with traditional dishes and endless more! To sample everything, I reckon you’d need several weeks!
There is so much more that Tekka has to offer! Perhaps you’d like to invest in some 24k gold jewellery? Check! Or maybe it’s time to reign in your unruly brows and go for a traditional eyebrow threading. Check! Have a custom-made suit tailored just for you? CHECK!
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple
Built by the Indian pioneers who made their long journey here to Singapore in the 19th century, the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple is one of the oldest religious sites in Singapore. By then, some thirteen over thousand Indians have settled and worked in Singapore, many in the Serangoon area. Many settlers were involved in the cattle trade. Cattle were used to operate machinery in the nearby factories, processing sesame oil, wheat and pineapple3.
Deepavali begins with rituals such as oil baths, putting on new clothes and heading to the temple such as this one for prayers and blessings.
Dunlop Streets Markets
Dunlop Street has a thriving fresh produce market place selling vegetables, fruits, spices and other ingredients, particularly from the Indian sub-continent. So if you are looking for some gorgeous produce to make your curries, this is the place to shop! I saw beautiful lady’s fingers, all manner of gourds, colourful chillies, spectacular brinjals and ripe, juicy custard apples! In India, I had these for the first time and could never resist each time I see them in this area. Always have to grab a bagful! Apart from that, I find custard apples to be sort of like a mix of mangosteen and soursop, very juicy and sweet!
There are flower shops aplenty too! Marigolds in particular are very auspicious in Indian culture and is worn and displayed everywhere, especially during festivals such as weddings and Deepavali. Don’t you just love the bright yellow marigolds?!
In fact, we use the marigold petals to garnish All Things Delicious Deepavali special, the Pistachio Cardamom Cake. It’s delicious and also beautiful!
And if you ever get hungry, there are no shortages of small restaurants for you to dig into an authentic and fiery South-Indian meal along Dunlop street and the adjacent streets. Walk around and explore!
Serangoon Road Light Up
I’ll end the walking tour on a bright, sparkly note admiring the Serangoon Road light up! What a way to soak in the Deepavali atmosphere, to stroll here in the evening when the lights go on (from 7pm). Spot the peacock motifs and you won’t miss the giant peacock display at the start of Serangoon Road.
It’s been a wonderful experience and I thank you for joining me! Check out my Instagram to see the little reel I’ve created in honour of Deepavali and I hope you enjoyed learning more about the local Indian culture here in Singapore with me, today.
Till next time!
x,
Mel
